Discovering bewitching mushrooms

Always on the lookout for unique and special products, we went to meet Benoit St-Jacques, a connoisseur of Jardins Sauvages at Jean-Talon Market. Behind his fresh mushroom counter, he's ready to share his knowledge with us.

 

Maple-scented cocklebur

‘Contrary to popular belief, it doesn't grow under maple trees,’ laughs Benoit. In fact, this mushroom grows under spruce trees. You can taste its strong maple flavour right on your taste buds! It is sold dried, as it is inedible fresh. Reduced to a powder, it can easily be added to the dry ingredients of biscuits or cakes. ‘It can also be rehydrated for use in the liquid parts of recipes, whether ice cream, crème brulée, panna cotta, caramel, etc.,’ says Benoit.

He explains that, at first, the mushroom was harvested just for the À la table des Jardins Sauvages restaurant, but then the public started to take an interest: ‘We're getting more and more requests for this particular mushroom! It can be kept in an airtight jar for up to a year.

 

Hedgehog mushroom

Better known by its English name Lion's Mane, this mushroom is a wonderful substitute for chicken. Its smell and texture are similar to poultry. ‘I had a customer last week who wanted to make a general tao chicken and used this instead. She came back this week to tell me: ‘It's excellent! ‘You can break it up into little florets, because it's a cauliflower-like mushroom. You could also slice it and put it in a sandwich.

Given that the mushroom is relatively soft, Benoit advises cooking it in a pan: ‘I cook it in half-and-half oil and butter over a medium heat. When the butter has melted in the oil, I put my pieces in the pan. When it starts to colour and release a little less water, I lower the heat to continue cooking. Obviously, the wetter it is, the longer it will take to cook.

 

Tufted polypore

It is also known as the hen of the woods or, in Japanese, maïtake, which simply means clump mushroom. ‘As it's relatively dry, it won't shrink much. It's really interesting because sometimes people look at the price of certain mushrooms and stop there. You have to think about the yield after cooking! Maitake will retain around 80% of its original weight once cooked’.

And there are many ways to prepare it. It can be dried, marinated, smoked, braised, simmered and so on. Marinated, it's perfect in salads or as an aperitif. It can be added to chuck roast, boeuf bourguignon, osso buco and even replace the meat in Chinese pâté. ‘In terms of flavour combinations, it goes well with any red meat,’ advises Benoit. ‘If someone at home doesn't like mushrooms, it's often because of the texture. In such cases, I tell them to finish cooking the mushrooms with a little duck fat. Then, with mashed potatoes, you make a parmentier and if you don't say a word, people will think it's just duck confit!’

 

Chaga

In nature, this mushroom grows on the yellow birch and looks like a piece of wood burnt on the tree. It is harvested in winter at temperatures below -20°C to extract as many antioxidant properties as possible. ‘People often start using it in powder form because it's easier to use. All you have to do is heat a cup of water, infuse a teaspoon of chaga powder for around ten minutes and then filter before drinking’. Because the grains are fine, you get almost all the benefits from the first infusion. Like tea, you can make a second cup, a little more diluted. The flavour is woody, with a touch of maple syrup.

 

Wild plants; arrivals

These days, the mushrooms on sale are grown in greenhouses. The wild plants, meanwhile, will make their appearance over the next few days, depending on the weather. ‘There will be American erythrone, a plant that can be eaten raw or in salads. The leaf tastes like cantaloupe and the flower is edible,’ explains Benoit. There's also Caroline's claytonia, which is eaten in the same way, but tastes like corn shoots. Fiddleheads are definitely coming soon. ‘They're probably coming next week,’ says a smiling Benoit.

Les Jardins Sauvages are pioneers in forest gastronomy. They sustainably harvest wild edible plants and wild mushrooms from Quebec in the form of fresh produce, processed products and prepared dishes. You can find them at our kiosk at Marché Jean-Talon, open all year round.

Read on for a profile of François Brouillard, founder of Les Jardins Sauvages and a woodland picker.